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Metals
Definitions of
metals I use in my jewelry:
Sterling
Silver, Argentium Sterling
Silver, Gold
Fill, Gold,
Niobium
--Sterling
Silver:
By law,
sterling silver must be 92.5% silver.
The law doesn't specify what alloy must be used.
Traditionally, copper
is the alloy used. Copper does a good job of
strengthening the silver, which is the purpose of an
alloy, but there are drawbacks, such as the speed at
which sterling tarnishes.
See Argentium
Sterling Silver if you are interested in learning more
about Sterling Silver that tarnishes very, very slowly.
Also, for
people who have a hard time wearing Copper and Standard
Sterling Silver, I have found that Argentium can be a
workable solution.
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--Argentium
Sterling Silver:
Argentium
addresses the drawbacks of Traditional Sterling Silver
by using germanium mixed with copper as the alloy,
rather than copper alone. This new version of
Sterling
tarnishes very, very slowly. This material is new, field
testing is ongoing and additional information is still
emerging.
When polished,
Argentium and traditional sterling look the same.
I do not have
access to clasps or wire in Argentium as of yet, so
realize that clasps and wires will tarnish at a
different rate. This
should not detract from the beauty of the piece, and the
tarnish can be removed during cleaning.
I personally prefer to use Argentium mixed with
Gold Fill so that I can use Gold Fill wire and clasps to
finish the piece.
In my
experience, people who have a hard time wearing Copper
and Traditional Sterling Silver can wear Argentium
Sterling Silver. My
husband tarnishes Sterling Silver quickly; in the past I
have had to clean any Traditional Sterling Silver he
wears weekly. A
colleague has an issue with Traditional Sterling Silver
turning her skin colors as well as corroding the metal.
They have both field-tested Argentium Sterling
Silver without turning their skin colors or rapidly
tarnishing the Silver.
This does not
mean that Argentium will work for you.
If you would like to conduct your own field test,
I can provide you with a bracelet to test on yourself
for up to a month. If
you want to test Argentium, contact me and I will send
you a bracelet that I have set aside specifically for
this test that is not part of my normal inventory.
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--Gold
Fill:
I use 14/20
gold filled wire. Gold Filled metal is made by
permanently bonding a layer of 14kt Gold to an
alloy/base metal core. The only thing that comes in
contact with your skin is 14kt Gold. You should not
confuse this process with gold plating because Gold
Filled has 100 times the amount of 14kt Gold as plating.
It is strong, durable, and resistant to tarnish.
It will not flake off. Many antique pieces, especially
watches, are made from 14kt Gold Filled metal. In order
to carry the label “Gold Filled”, it must be at
least 1/20th (by weight) 14kt gold. The result is a
metal that looks and wears like 14kt gold but is much
more affordable.
Gold Fill is
available in Yellow and Rose Gold color
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--Gold:
Pure gold
(24K) is too soft for most jewelry purposes, including
making chainmaille, so it's alloyed with other metals in
varying amounts to increase its strength and hardness.
18K gold is 75% gold (.752 to be precise) and the alloy
that makes up the rest varies by recipe. Different
alloys result in different shades of gold.
The ring
making process used by my supplier was designed with the
intention of hardening the metal every step of the way
because harder rings make stronger chain and precious
metals are generally somewhat soft. My supplier’s
process makes 18K gold rings extremely hard to the point
of being difficult to weave in heavier gauges. For this
reason I have to limit my chainmaille offerings to 18K
and higher.
Gold is
available in White, Yellow and Rose colors.
I have access
to 14K gold wire and components.
See special
orders/gold in regard to making a request for an item to
be made in 18k gold.
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--Niobium:
Niobium is an elemental metal (#41). It is called
a "reactive metal" because you can get lovely
colors when you heat it or zap it with electricity.
My niobium
supplier anodizes the metal to create the myriad of
colors I use.
Anodization is defined as immersing metal in a
conductive fluid and running electrical current through
the bath to produce an oxide layer on the surface of the
metal. The oxide layer yields a wonderful range of
colors. The thickness of the oxide layer determines the
color. Possible colors (from thinnest to thickest oxide
layer) range through brown, blue, yellow, pink, purple,
teal, and green. Anodized niobium often has an
iridescent, color-spanning shimmer.
My supplier
only offers rings in two relatively small ring sizes, so
please contact me if you would like to make a special
order with Niobium.
I will let you know if I can accommodate your
request.
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